Alun Evans
16 posts
Joined: 07/03/2009 01:42:45
Location: llanelli United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Pre A-Plus Drop Gear Housing onto A Plus Block
Hi i am currently building an A Plus engine but the Drop Gear housing is damaged beyond use but i do have a very good Pre A Plus drop gear housing now i know that this pre A Plus housing has a much smaller idler gear bearing than the A Plus 3/4" diameter pin on the A Plus idler Gear but i was wondering is it possible to get the Pre A Plus housing machined to take the A Plus idler bearing or get the A Plus idler pin machined to fit the Pre A Plus Bearing or am i going to have to scrap the idea and shell out for a New casing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Posted: May 04, 2009 03:43 PM
13 posts
Joined: 28/03/2010 23:17:37
Location: CARSHALTON United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wanted auto gear stick housing
I have a 1996 auto mini and the clips on the insode of the housing have broken. Please does anyone know where i can get a new/ 2nd hand one. No one seems to be selling them?
Posted: Mar 28, 2010 11:29 PM
C. Barron
332 posts
Joined: 04/05/2006 21:28:31
Location: Mid Calder United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gear box rattle at idle
The noise could be coming from the transfer gears, but it could also be coming from the clutch thrust bearing. The thrust bearing is inside the clutch/flywheel housing outer cover and is the easiest to replace. To replace the transfer gears the whole alluminium end housing needs to be removed, possible to do it in the car I think, but should even a small washer drop down into the sump you will have a major problem trying to fish it out in such a restricted space. You would do better by taking the engine out for the transfer gears bearings
Posted: Jun 22, 2006 03:27 PM
paddy the irishman
10 posts
Joined: 07/01/2008 20:56:29
Location: ballymoney United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
changing crown wheel and pinion
you can change the crown wheel and pinion as a set regardless of whether they are a+ or not just keep them as a set. don't worry about the shims i you keep the old output shaft bearings in as the shims are there to provide the correct preload on the bearings and have nothing to do with the back lash in the gears. i there was no gasket between the diff and gearbox housings don't put one in as they were sometimes machined in the factory that way, just use a sealant in that case. Keep the box and diff housings together as a pair!!! To undo the big bolt that holds the pinion on you will have to separate the box from the engine, turn the gear selector anticlockwise to disengage it from the bell cranks then use a lever to engage 1st and 4th gears simultaneously thus "jamming" the gears solid. you can then put your socket on the pinion bolt and undo it. It's done up to 150 lbft so you'll need patience and imagination. ALL THE BEST!!!!!
Posted: Jan 08, 2008 12:09 AM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini diff
first of all i was going to say tracking out but with hole in diff housing sound F*cked. sound like will need to remove engine and replace diff. do you know what final drive it has as you will need to get same for speedo to read right or change speedo gears in gearbox. if yours is post 1980 then any A+ diff housing should work. choices of final drive ratio you have for A+ are, 3.44 (found on metro and all minis A+ pre 1990 except city models. gives good allround acceleration and top speed.) 3.2 rare found on some coopers 3.1 found of 90's 1275's and late 998s possibly some 80's mayfairs good everyday car ratio good on motorway, 2.95 found on mini city gd economy poor performence, 2.75 1997 on minis gd enconomy poor perforence. if ur mini is pre 1980 its little more complicated with diff housings and speedo gears.
Posted: Feb 22, 2008 01:58 PM
Joel Hoffman
2 posts
Joined: 20/03/2009 02:48:11
Location: Fuquay Varina United States
Flywheel Housing Installation Problem
Last Fall, I did a thorough overhaul on a Metro engine that was previously installed in an early Mini. The engine was supposedly rebuilt about 5000 miles ago by an experienced Mini shop in the USA (where I am located). It had blown a head gasket, and I purchased it in this condition. Whoever assembled it the last time made some "errors", so I question how much experience the shop actually had. The oil thrower was installed the wrong way, causing it to rub on the double row timing chain, there was a scratch around a rod bearing shell indicating dirt when assembled, a piston had a small piece missing from the skirt. You get the idea. The engine now has been assembled properly with a replacement flowed head, new bearings, Kent 286 camshaft properly degreed in, 73.5mm pistons with 9cc dish, the compression ratio carefully measured out and set at 10.5:1, and a lot of other things ----- all put together in a clean environment. The project has been idling (pun intended) for a few months and it's time to get it moving again. I just assembled the transmission to the engine, and installed the drop gears. I did no work to the transmission as it seems good and was overhauled recently. When installing the flywheel housing, the primary gear can be easily rotated until I firm up the last two bottom bolts inside the housing. Then, it takes much more force to rotate the primary gear. If I loosen up either of the two bottom bolts, it rotates freely again. Ok, so something is binding. I've taken the housing off a couple of times trying to figure out what is causing the problem with nothing obvious seen. I can still rotate the primary gear with the two bottom bolts tight, but it takes a lot of effort. The primary gear end clearance is correct, and nothing was changed with this assembly, The thrust washers on each side of the idler gear are the same ones that were in the engine when I disassembled it, but may have been changed from one side to the other when the motor was apart. I also cannot tell if the idler gear was turned over side for side from how it was assembled originally. The bearing at the end of the first motion shaft bearing was not removed. I'd appreciate any insight into what the problem might be. Thanks!!!!!
Posted: Apr 25, 2010 07:50 PM
diddi
37 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 09:03:12
Location: St. Ingbert Germany
noisy gears
The noise that you describe and also the dragging noise that disappears when depressing the clutch pedal is the definite indication for the transfer gears i.e. idler gear bearings failure. Please don´t drive the car anymore before this is repaired. If you are very lucky, and i doubt you are, its only the idler gear bearings. But, if it´s already that noisy, usually the transfer gear housing and maybe also the gearbox itself are already damaged and you may also nead a complete transfer gear set. Both can be repaired by a competent machine shop but, it would be easier/cheaper to get a 2nd hand gearbox plus transfer gear housing or maybe even a complete engine/gearbox unit. To check the extent of the damage, it´s an engine-out-job and the clutch and transfer gear housing must be removed. Sorry for these bad news but this is a common problem with minis. Cheers, Diddi
Posted: Jan 27, 2006 04:22 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Speedo
1. A gear turns in the gearbox driven off the end of the diff (I think) so it turns relative to the output speed not the engine speed. This spins the speedo cable which has square ends to act as a key. In the speedo, I think it uses a centrifugal (poor spelling) method to convert the increase and decrease in rotation into an output via the needle. 2. The cable connects to the speedo housing which is on the back about level with the rear cross member of the front subframe. It is on the left as you look from inside the car. Its quite difficult to spot on later cars with all the gubbins in there. 3. The main reason is if the cable brakes, but as you have a new one, Id hope that isnt the case. Easy way to check is to drive the car round the block without the speedo attached and see if the cable end turns (put some masking tape over the end to make it more obvious) and if it turns relative to your actual speed. If you travel at a contant speed and its speeding up and slowing down, then it may be a problem in the speedo housing possibly slipping gears. The problem could also be in the speedo, but I havent taken one of those appart, so dont know exactly how they work to know how they might go wrong.
Posted: Jun 01, 2005 10:19 PM
Leonard
95 posts
Joined: 10/11/2004 19:56:22
Location: Stroud United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
box
i had a problem with mine where the syncros were worn, and the box would go into 2 gears at the same time. it locked up at my house once, and wouldnt move. it went into 2 gears on a dual carriageway and blew up. the problem was i was using the wrong oil. sounds like a gearbox problem, i cant think what else would lock up
Posted: Jan 29, 2005 09:51 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Steering rack,
I just use normal grease - slap a bit round each of the ball joints inside the bellows and also inside the gear housing. Wind the steering form lock to lock a few times and repeat. You don't need anything high tech!
Posted: Mar 29, 2007 08:14 PM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
quickshift
The stick is manufactured differently such that the pivot point is further from the end. This means that you have to move the stick less to engage the gears, hence the 'quick-shift' part of the name. They are easy enough to fit to all minis once the pins holding the original cap have been pushed/pulled out of the housing.
Posted: May 18, 2010 08:20 PM
Tuning for top speed?
its not quite as simple as that. as standard diff ratios you have choice from 3.76-2.76 (rembering A+ ones wont fit A series diff housings max can fit in a series is 3.44). 3.76 will have best acceleration and worst fuel economy. 2.76 will have worst acceleration and best ecconomy. if you gear it too high you will spoil its nippyness and will be harder to pull away and do hill starts eseshally if you have a small engine with less torque. as for top speed it isnt quite as simple, the theoretical top speed of the 2.76 is alot higher than 3.76. but in practice this can be more than what the mini will pull it will often get to 80 and wont have power to accelerate any further and will be very sensitive to hills. for isnstance the top speed (90mph)of the mpi cooper is less than the spi cooper (92)even though the mpi is geared higher. mk1 cooper s with 75bhp would do 96 even though it had 3.76 diff as standard this is because it had the power still at speed due to gearing. also its hard to get mini much past 100mph even with powerful engines. if economy is your only aim go for 2.76 but if you were just aiming for that you would keep the 850, if top speed and good accerleration are important 3.44 will be good comprimise. also you can fit it in same diff housing which makes life simpler.
Posted: Mar 06, 2008 09:19 AM
ul also need to change speedo drive gears to correct ones for the diff ratio. also rember if u have a pre A+ diff housing it wont fit.
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 10:47 PM
if its A+ will have ribs on the block i dont recognise engine number http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=298 unless its non mini eg metro or 1100 , 1300 ect . A+ box's have a slight groove in the gears in midle of the teeth and casting has part number begining DAM. also worth metioning is the diff housings and box's when not put on original matching casting can often be more prone to leaks so its best to keep them as a pair if possible.
Posted: Jan 06, 2008 11:46 AM
Andy M
9 posts
Joined: 27/10/2004 22:44:56
Location: Kilmarnock United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch problem
The clutch could be seized. You may be able to remove the housing in situ by jacking up the engine and removing the end cover/engine mount. Try putting it in gear and rocking in back and forth.
Posted: Mar 29, 2015 09:01 PM
neilmr
1 posts
Joined: 27/08/2012 17:52:24
Location: Eastbourne United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clubman clutch
I've just replaced the clutch and the master cylinder but now I can't get it into any gear as it crunches, what is the most likely thing that I've done wrong ??? I've lined up all the "A"s on the pressure plate, flywheel and housing and bleed the cylinder, what's my next step please.
thanks Neil
Posted: Feb 10, 2019 09:59 AM
68Moke
33 posts
Joined: 10/09/2004 21:06:12
Location: Lakeville United States
gear box.
Why do you want, or maybe need to change it? Assuming it is need of a rebuild. Many want to keep the original box to the car. Assuming this is all pre-verto style of flywheel, you can bolt on a rod change box, but changes will have to be made. You will need of course all the linkage and the bracket to mount the shifter. A new hole may have to be cut in the floor pan and not all are willing to do this. You should be able to use the same flywheel housing but you will have to check the thrust clearance on the idler gear. Read your manual on the proper procedure. Which is mainly bolt up the flywheel housing to the gear box (the motor is out of the picture, not bolted to the box) with gasket in place. Take a feeler gauge and measure the clearance. You may want to put on some lower engine steadies. I installed a rod change box to my 68 English Moke that had a magic wand tranny. For the moke, I had to shorten the shift linkage and support. Wtih the shifter being so low, I had to increase its length by 3 1/2 . Good luck
Posted: Jul 26, 2005 04:43 AM
Alex
129 posts
Joined: 20/10/2004 23:06:00
Location: York United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch
Well If the clutch piston is moving and u still cant get a gear it sounds like you r plates are warn - Try starting it in gear and if u floor it then it will fire and set off - if it moves and u cant here it over reving then i must be sommat else. Could also be the spring plate has failed so u cant disengage the clutch- I suggest Taking teh clutch housing of and renewing everything plates, springs, thrust bearsing the works
Posted: Jul 02, 2005 06:48 PM
Got it going - now the problems start
yeah old su fuel pumps as used to be mounted on rear subframe will click as they have mecannical trigger system for solinoid in pump later cars have mecanical one on back of block off. not something stuck in wheel arch rubbing? there is ajjustment for clutch wear on early minis on clutch housing. reverse has no syncro so can often grate a bit espeshally if can not at standstill. when first gear bulkrings wear it will grate when u change down into it. yeah build up those arm muscles 145 tires have so little grip they turn easily. id fit 165 yoko's or fulkens on the 12" steels improves the handing no end cars goes where u direct it.
Posted: May 06, 2008 02:01 PM
J. Clarke
Fitting a 1275 engine-what changes?
use parts from 1275 engine, thermostate housing, hoses brackets ect. most 1275's dont use bypass hose they use holes in thermostate that allow enouth water to circulate before thermostate opens, use large impellor pump as fitted to 1275. the clutch type will depend on what 1275 you are fitting as clutch systems varied, i dont think you will have alot of issues with electronic dystrib, late metros and 90's 1275 minis all have an electrcnic dystrib as standard, look at 90's mini wiring diagram if there are any issues, exhaust manifolds are slightly differnt lengths however both will fit, cooling may be an issue as later 1275's had extra electric fan in wing but 1275gt and cooper S didnt and these were a little prone to boiling in traffic jams, a new uprated rad would be best solution, if not an extra fan inside wing thermostatically operated by temp sensor in rad or by manual switch in car. if one is pre 1980 and one post speedo may read out, pre 1980 the speedo's were varied post the speedo gears in box.
Posted: Oct 06, 2008 12:36 PM